Washing and/or conditioning composition for keratinous materials based on a silicone containing a hydroxyacylamino functional group and on substantive polymers

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a washing and/or conditioning composition for keratinous materials containing, in an aqueous medium suitable for these materials, at least one silicone containing a hydroxyacylamino functional group, at least one substantive polymer and at least one detergent surface-active agent.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a divisional application of Ser. No. 08/384,604filed Feb. 3, 1995, now U.S. Pat. No. 5,627,148, which is a file wrappercontinuation of Ser. No. 07/905,540 filed Jun. 30, 1992, now abandoned.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to washing and/or conditioningcompositions for keratinous materials, especially hair, based on asilicone containing a hydroxyacylamino functional group and onsubstantive polymers, as well as to processes for the treatment of thesematerials using such compositions.

It is well known that hair is sensitised or weakened to various degreesby the action of atmospheric agents such as the sun or bad weather aswell as by the action of various cosmetic treatments such as permanentwaves, hair straightenings, dyeings or bleachings. The hair then becomesdifficult to disentangle and to style. Moreover, it is rough to thetouch and lacks softness.

For this reason, washing and/or conditioning compositions for keratinousmaterials are looked for which would be able to confer, especially onfibres such as hair, good disentangling properties combined with goodsoftness properties.

Shampooing compositions containing a substantive polymer have alreadybeen used in the past. These compositions are known to improve hairdisentangling.

Shampooing compositions are also known containing silicones whichgenerally give good softness properties to hair.

Moreover, compositions containing silicones and polymers, especiallycationic polymers, are known.

However, these compositions were shown to be unsatisfactory inconferring all the desired disentangling and softening characteristicson the treated keratinous materials, especially on hair.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The Applicant has discovered, which is the subject of the invention,that the employment of a particular silicone containing ahydroxyacylamino functional group and of a substantive polymer in asurface-active detergent base led to disentangling and softnessproperties superior to those obtained with each of the constituentstaken separately in the same base and at the total concentration of thecombination.

Moreover, it was noted that this combination led to improveddisentangling and softness properties, especially on hair, in relationto the properties which could be obtained with the combinations known inthe state of the art.

These compositions, in their preferred embodiment, contain suspendingagents, other than alcohols having 27 to 44 carbon atoms and containingone or two ether and/or thioether or sulphoxide groups.

The subject of the invention is thus a washing and/or conditioningcomposition for keratinous materials which contains at least onesilicone with a hydroxyacylamino functional group, at least onesubstantive polymer, at least one surface-active detergent agent andoptionally some suspending agents for silicones.

Another subject of the invention is a process for washing and/orconditioning keratinous materials, in particular hair, using such acomposition.

Other subjects of the invention will appear in the course of thedescription and the examples which follow.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The washing and/or conditioning composition for keratinous materials, inaccordance with the invention, is essentially characterised in that itcontains, in an aqueous medium, at least one silicone containing ahydroxyacylamino functional group, at least one substantive polymer andat least one surface-active agent having detergent properties.

The silicone containing a hydroxyacylamino functional group is chosenespecially from the compounds corresponding to the formula: ##STR1## inwhich: R₁ and R₂ denote (CH₂)₂, (CH₂)₃, (CH₂)₄ or --CH₂ CH(CH₃)CH₂ --;

R₃ denotes hydrogen, hydroxyl, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl;

n is an integer varying from 2 to 7;

x is an integer varying from 20 to approximately 1,500;

y varies between approximately 0.5 and 10;

and the y/x ratio is less than 0.05.

Such silicones are more particularly described in European PatentApplication EP-A-0342834.

A more particularly preferred silicone of the formula (I) is thatcorresponding to formula (I), in which:

R₁ denotes --CH₂ CH(CH₃)CH₂ --;

R₂ denotes --(CH₂)₂ --;

R₃ denotes hydrogen;

x is equal to 392;

y is equal to 8;

n is equal to 3.

Such silicones are sold in particular under the name Q2-8413 by theCompany Dow Corning.

The silicones containing a hydroxyacylamino function group are presentin the compositions in accordance with the invention in proportionspreferably of between 0.1 and 20% by weight, and in particular between0.5 and 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of thecomposition.

A "substantive polymer" means a polymer which can be made visible withthe help of the acid dye Red 80 according to Richard J. Crawford,Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1980 31 (5), pages 273 to278.

The substantive polymers are chosen in particular from polymerscontaining primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groupswhich form part of the polymer chain or are directly connected to thelatter and which have a molecular weight of between 500 andapproximately 5,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000 andare different from the copolymer of diallyldialkylammonium and of ananionic monomer such as acrylic acid.

Among these polymers there may be mentioned more particularly thequaternised proteins and the polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamideand quaternary polyammonium class.

A. The quaternised proteins are in particular polypeptides which arechemically modified and which carry quaternary ammonium groups at thechain end or grafted on the latter:

collagen hydrolysates carrying triethylammonium groups such as theproducts sold under the name "Quat-Pro E" by the Company Maybrook andcalled, in the CTFA dictionary, "Triethonium Hydrolyzed CollagenEthosulfate";

collagen hydrolysates carrying trimethylammonium ordimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, sold under the name "Quat-ProS" by the Company Maybrook and called, in the CTFA dictionary,"Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen";

animal protein hydrolysates carrying dimethylbenzylammonium groups suchas the products sold under the name "Crotein BTA" by the Company Crodaand called, in the CTFA dictionary, "Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed AnimalProtein";

protein hydrolysates carrying, on the polypeptide chain, quaternaryammonium groups containing at least one alkyl radical having from 1 to18 carbon atoms.

Among these protein hydrolysates, there may be mentioned among others:

Croquat L, in which the polypeptide chain has an average molecularweight of approximately 2,500 and in which the quaternary ammonium groupcontains a C₁₂ alkyl group;

Croquat M, in which the polypeptide chain has an average molecularweight of approximately 2,500 and in which the quaternary ammonium groupcontains a C₁₀ -C₁₈ alkyl group;

Croquat S, in which the polypeptide chain has an average molecularweight of approximately 2,700 and in which the quaternary ammonium groupcontains a C₁₈ alkyl group;

Croquat Q, in which the polypeptide chain has an average molecularweight of the order of 12,000 and in which the quaternary ammonium groupcontains at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms;

a quaternised vegetable protein from soya sold under the name CroquatSoya.

These various products are sold by the Company Croda.

a quaternised protein resulting from the condensation ofcocamidopropyldimethylamine with a hydrolysed animal protein, called, inthe supplement to the 3rd edition (1982) of the CTFA dictionary,Cocamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropylamino Hydrolysed Animal Protein,sold under the name Lexein QX 3000 by the Company Inolex.

B. The polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide or quaternarypolyammonium class, which can be used in accordance with the presentinvention, are described in particular in the French Patents of theApplicant No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997.

Among these polymers, there may be mentioned:

(1) optionally quaternised vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylateor methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name"Gafquat" by the Company Gaf Corporation, such as, for example, "Gafquat734 or 755", or else the products called "Copolymer 845, 958 and 937".These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and2,393,573.

(2) Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groupsdescribed in French Patent 1,492,597 and in particular the polymersmarketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400,LR 30M) by the Company Union Carbide Corporation. The polymers are alsodefined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted with atrimethylammonium group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as the copolymers of celluloseor cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternaryammonium monomer and described in greater detail in U.S. Pat. No.4,131,576, such as the hydroxyalkyl celluloses such as hydroxymethyl,hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted with amethacryloylethyltrimethylammonium,methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The marketed products which correspond to this definition are moreparticularly the products sold under the names "Celquat L 200" and"Celquat H 100" by the Company National Starch.

(4) The quaternised polysaccharides described more particularly in U.S.Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 and more particularly the productmarketed under the name "Jaguar C 13 S" and sold by the Company Meyhall.

(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and of divalent, straight-or branched-chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals, optionallyinterrupted by oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic orheterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and/or quaternisationproducts of these polymers. Such polymers are described in FrenchPatents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

(6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular bypolycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine. Thesepolyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, adianhydride, an unsaturated anhydride, a bisunsaturated derivative, abishalohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine, an alkylbishalide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of abifunctional compound reactive with respect to a bishalohydrin, abisazetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine, an alkyl bishalide, anepihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bisunsaturated derivative; thecrosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide.

These polyaminopolyamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one ormore tertiary amine functional groups, quaternised. Such polymers aredescribed in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

(7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation ofpolyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by analkylation by bi-functional agents. There may be mentioned, for example,the adipic acid-dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers inwhich the alkyl radical contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferablydenotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in FrenchPatent 1,583,363.

Among these derivatives, there may be more particularly mentioned theadipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers soldunder the names "Cartaretine F, F₄ or F₈ " by the Company Sandoz.

(8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylenepolyamine containingtwo primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with adicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphaticdicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio ofpolyalkylenepolyamine to dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8:1 and1.4:1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being brought to reactionwith epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin in relation tothe secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5:1 and1.8:1. Such polymers are described in particular in U.S. Pat. Nos.3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name"Hercosett 57" by the Company Hercules Incorporated or else under thename of "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the Company Hercules in the caseof the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.

(9) Cyclopolymers having a molecular weight of 20,000 to 3,000,000 suchas the homopolymers containing, as principal constituent of the chain,units corresponding to the formulae (II) or (II'): ##STR2## l and t areequal to 0 or 1, and the sum l+t=1; R₆ denotes hydrogen or methyl;

R₄ and R₅ denote, independently of each other, an alkyl group havingfrom 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl grouppreferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms or a lower amidoalkyl group and whereR₄ and R₅ can denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they areconnected, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl, aswell as copolymers containing units of formulae (II) or (II') and unitsderived from acrylamide or from diacetoneacrylamide;

Y⁻ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate,tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate.

Among the polymers defined above, there may be more particularlymentioned the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold underthe name "Merquat 100", which has a molecular weight of less than100,000, or the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and ofacrylamide which has a molecular weight of greater than 500,000 and issold under the name "Merquat 550" by the Company Merck.

These polymers are described more particularly in French Patent2,080,759 and its Certificate of Addition No. 2,190,406.

(10) The polymer of quaternary polyammonium containing repeat unitscorresponding to the formula: ##STR3## in which R₇ and R₈, R₉ and R₁₀,being identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic orarylaliphatic radicals containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lowerhydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals or else R₇ and R₈ and R₉ and R₁₀,together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they areconnected, heterocycles which optionally contain a second hetero atomother than nitrogen or else R₇, R₈, R₉ and R₁₀ represent a linear orbranched C₁ -C₆ alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl,amide or ##STR4## group, where R₁₁ is an alkylene and D a quaternaryammonium group.

A₁ and B₁ represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbonatoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, andwhich may contain, connected to or inserted into the principal chain,one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulphur atoms orsulphoxide, sulphone, disulphide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl,quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X⁻ denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

A₁ and R₇ and R₉ may form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they areconnected, a piperazine ring; additionally, if A₁ denotes a linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical,B₁ may also denote a group:

    (CH.sub.2).sub.n --CO--D--OC--(CH.sub.2).sub.n --

in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: --O--Z--O-- where Z denotes a linear orbranched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to the formulae:##STR5## where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing adefined and single degree of polymerisation or any number whatever from1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerisation;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bisprimary diamine residue of formula:

    --NH--Y--NH--

where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else thebivalent radical

    --CH.sub.2 --CH.sub.2 --S--S--CH.sub.2 --CH.sub.2 --

d) a ureylene group of formula:

    --NH--CO--NH--;

X⁻ is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers have a molecular mass generally of between 1,000 and100,000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French Patents2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and the U.S.Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462,2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904,4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

(11) Polymers of quaternary polyammonium consisting of units of formula:##STR6## in which: R₁₂, R₁₃, R₁₄ and R₁₅, which are identical ordifferent, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl,β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or --CH₂ CH₂ (OCH₂ CH₂)_(p) OH radical,

where p is equal to 0 or an integer of between 1 and 6, with the provisothat R₁₂, R₁₃, R₁₄ and R₁₅ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogenatom;

x and y, which are identical or different, are integers of between 1 and6;

m is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 34;

x denotes a halogen atom;

A denotes a dihalide radical and preferably represents

    --CH.sub.2 --CH.sub.2 --O--CH.sub.2 --CH.sub.2 --

Such compounds are described in more detail in the ApplicationEP-A-122,324.

It is possible, for example, to mention among the latter the products"Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZ1", "Mirapol 175", sold by theCompany Miranol.

(12) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylicesters or amides and containing the units: ##STR7## in which: R₁₈denotes H or CH₃ :

A₂ is a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or ahydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁, which are identical or different, represent an alkylgroup having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical;

R₁₅ and R₁₇ represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6carbon atoms;

X⁻ ₂ denotes a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride orbromide.

The comonomer(s) which may be used belong(s) to the class of acrylamide,methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamide and methacrylamidesubstituted at the nitrogen by lower alkyls, acrylic or methacrylicacids or their esters, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters.

Among these compounds, there may be mentioned the copolymer ofacrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternised withdimethyl sulphate and sold under the name "Hercofloc" by the CompanyHercules, the copolymer of acrylamide and ofmethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride--described in the PatentApplication EP-A-80976--and sold under the name "Bina Qat P100" by theCompany Ciba Geigy, or again thepoly(methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride) sold under the name"Polymaptac" by the Company Texaco Chemicals ormethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate and its copolymerwith acrylamide sold under the name "Reten" by the Company Hercules.

(13) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole suchas, for example, the products marketed under the names "Luviquat FC 905,FC 550 and FC 370" by the Company BASF.

(14) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, referenced under thename "Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine" in the CTFA dictionary.

Other substantive polymers which can be used in accordance with theinvention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines,polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensatesof polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes andchitin derivatives.

It is also possible to mention polymers derived from chitosan, chosen inparticular from those described in French Patent 2,137,684 andcontaining units corresponding to the formulae (VI): ##STR8##

The unit (A) is present in proportions of 0 to 30%, the unit (B) of 5 to50%, the unit (C) of 30 to 90% by weight. R represents a linear orbranched alkylene group containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.

The preferred polymer contains preferably 0 to 20% of unit (A), 40 to50% of unit (B) and 40 to 50% of unit (C) in which R denotes an alkyleneradical and preferably --CH₂ --CH₂ --.

Such a polymer will be denoted in the examples by "polymer P1".

The particularly preferred polymers in the compositions in accordancewith the invention are the following:

the block copolymer containing units of formula: ##STR9## and offormula: ##STR10##

X⁻ is a halide, sold under the name "Mirapol 175" by the CompanyMiranol.

the cyclopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium sold under the names"Merquat 100", "Merquat 550" by the Company Merck;

chitosan derivatives.

The substantive polymers which may be used in accordance with theinvention are present in the compositions in proportions of between 0.05and 8% by weight and preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight in relationto the total weight of the composition.

When the compositions are used as washing compositions, they containdetergent surface-active agents chosen in particular from the anionic,amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic surface-active agents or theirmixtures.

Among the anionic surface-active agents, there may be mentioned thealkali metal salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, theaminoalcohol salts or the magnesium salts of the following compounds:the alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulphates or monoglyceride sulphates; the alkylsulphonates,alkylamidesulphonates, alkylarylsulphonates, olefinsulphonates orparaffinsulphonates; the alkylsulphosuccinates, thealkylethersulphosuccinates or the alkylamidesulphosuccinates; thealkylsulphosuccinamates; the alkylsulphoacetates; the alkyl etherphosphates; the acylsarcosinates or the N-acyltaurates.

The alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds generally consistsof a carbon chain containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Among the anionic surface-active agents, there may also be mentioned thefatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic orstearic acid; the acids of copra oil or of hydrogenated copra oil; theacyl lactylates, the acyl radical of which contains from 8 to 20 carbonatoms.

It is also possible to use weakly anionic surface-active agents, such asthe polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ethers, in particular thosecontaining 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups.

The nonionic surface-active agents are more particularly chosen from thealcohols or the α-diols or the alkylphenols or the polyethoxylated,polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, with a fatty chaincontaining 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide orpropylene oxide groups being between 2 and 50 and the number of glycerolgroups being between 2 and 30.

It is also possible to mention the copolymers of ethylene oxide and ofpropylene oxide; the condensates of ethylene oxide and of propyleneoxide with fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides havingpreferably 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; the polyglycerolated fattyamides containing preferably 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular1.5 to 4; the polyethoxylated fatty amines having preferably 2 to 30 molof ethylene oxide; the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitanhaving preferably 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; the fatty acid estersof sucrose, the fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, the fatty acidesters of glycols, the alkylpolyglycosides, the amine oxides such as theoxides of (C₁₀ -C₁₄)alkylamines or of N-acylamidopropylmorpholine.

The preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agents are thederivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which thealiphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18carbon atoms and which contains at least one water-solubilisingcarboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate anionicgroup; the (C₈ -C₂₀)alkylbetaines, the sulphobetaines, the (C₈-C₂₀)alkylamido(C₁ -C₆)alkylbetaines or the (C₆ -C₂₀)alkylamido(C₁-C₆)alkylsulphobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, there may be mentioned the products soldunder the name "Miranol", such as described in the U.S. Pat. Nos.2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and listed in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition,1982, under the name of Amphocarboxyglycinates andAmphocarboxypropionates.

The surface-active agents are used in the compositions in accordancewith the invention in sufficient proportions to confer a detergentcharacter on the composition and comprise preferably between 5 and 50%by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition and inparticular between 8 and 35%.

The compositions in accordance with the invention generally have a pH ofbetween 2 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 8.

The aqueous medium may consist solely of water or of a mixture of waterand of a cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as a C₁ -C₄ lower alcoholsuch as ethanol, isopropanol or n-butanol or the alkylene glycols suchas ethylene glycol or the glycol ethers.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain as apreferred embodiment suspending agents, other than alcohols having 27 to44 carbon atoms and containing one or two ether and/or thioether orsulphoxide groups.

Among these agents, there may be mentioned:

a) the compounds of formula:

    R.sub.22 X                                                 (III)

in which R₂₂ is an aliphatic radical containing a long carbon chain,optionally interrupted by oxygen atoms, and X is a carboxylic, sulphuricor phosphoric acid residue or a radical derived from a carboxylic acidor from an amide; these compounds of formula (III) are chosen from thosein which:

(i) R₂₂ is a C₁₁ -C₂₁ alkyl or alkenyl radical and X is:

a group COOD where D is a mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical derived froma C₂ -C₃ polyol or a CH₂ CH₂ SO₃ M radical,

a group CO(OCH₂ CH₂)_(n) --OH where n has a value of between 2 and 150,

a group ##STR11## where n has a value of between 2 and 150, it beingpossible to esterify the free OH functional groups of the groups definedabove with an acid R₂₂ COOH where R₂₂ is a C₁₁ -C₂₁ alkyl or alkenyl,

a group CONR₂₃ R₂₄ where R₂₃ and R₂₄ represent hydrogen or C₁ -C₄hydroxyalkyl, one at least representing C₁ -C₄ hydroxyalkyl,

a group OSO₃ M or 1/3 PO₄ ³⁻ M₃ where M represents an alkali metal,ammonium or a C₁ -C₄ alkanolamine residue.

(ii) R₂₂ denotes a radical R₂₅ (OC₂ H₄)_(l) OCH₂ and X denotes a groupCOOM where M has the meaning shown above, R₂₅ denoting a C₁₂ -C₁₄ alkylradical and l an integer or decimal number of between 2.5 and 10, orelse R₂₅ denotes oleyl and l varies from 2 to 9 or again R₂₅ denotes (C₈-C₉) alkylphenyl and l varies from 4 to 8, or the derivatives in whichR₂₂ denotes a (C₁₂ -C₁₈) alkyl ether group and X a group CONR₂₃ R₂₄, inwhich R₂₃ and R₂₄ have the same meaning as that shown above;

b) dimethyl(C₁₈ -C₂₂) alkylamine oxides;

c) biopolysaccharides chosen, for example, from xanthan gums andscleroglucans.

These suspending agents are used in the compositions in accordance withthe invention in proportions generally of between 0.1 and 20% by weightand preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight in relation to the totalweight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention can also containpearlescence or opacifying agents in proportions which can range to upto 3%, such as sodium or potassium palmitates, sodium or potassiumstearates or hydroxystearates or ethylene glycol mono- or distearate.

These compositions can also contain viscosity regulating agents, such aselectrolytes such as sodium chloride or sodium xylenesulphonate,hydrotropes, thickeners such as cellulose derivatives, such as, forexample, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, guar gum or hydroxypropylated guar gums.

These viscosity regulating agents are used in proportions which canrange to up to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of thecomposition and preferably are less than 5% by weight.

The compositions can also contain other agents which have the effect ofimproving the cosmetic properties of the hair and/or of the skin, withthe proviso that they do not change the stability of the compositions,among which there may be mentioned cationic surface-active agents,polymers or proteins other than quaternised proteins, oils, waxes,resins or silicone gums other than the silicone derivatives definedabove.

The polymers, cationic surface-active agents, nonquaternised proteinsand silicones other than the silicones containing a hydroxyacylaminogroup of formula (I) are preferably used in proportions of between 0.05and 6%, and in particular between 0.1 and 3% by weight in relation tothe total weight of the composition.

These compositions can contain any other adjuvants normally used incosmetics and especially in the treatment of the hair and/or of theskin, such as fragrances, preservatives, sequestering agents, foamstabilisers, propellants, sunscreens, dyes, acidifying or alkalinisingagents or other adjuvants according to the use envisaged.

The process for washing and/or conditioning keratinous materials such asthe hair and/or the skin, consists in applying, to these damp materials,any one of the compositions defined above and in proceeding, preferably,to a rinsing after their application.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention withoutbeing of a limiting nature.

EXAMPLE 1

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared:

    ______________________________________                                        Surface-active agent of the polyoxyethylenated                                                         5.0 g AS                                             carboxylic acid ether type, of formula:                                       R(OCH.sub.2 CH.sub.2).sub.n OCH.sub.2 COOH                                    in which:                                                                     R = octylphenyl                                                               n = average value of 4                                                        sold under the name Akypo OP 40                                               by the Company Chem Y at 90% AS                                               30% AS Ammonium lauryl sulphate                                                                        5.0 g AS                                             38% AS Sodium α-olefinsulphonate                                                                 5.0 g AS                                             Quaternised polymer sold at 60-63% AS                                                                  1.0 g AS                                             concentration under the name                                                  Mirapol 175 by the Company Miranol                                            Polysiloxane containing a hydroxy-                                                                     2.0 g                                                acylamino functional group, sold under                                        the name Q2-8413 by the Company                                               Dow Corning                                                                   Sodium chloride          1.5 g                                                Triethanolamine          qs pH = 6.3                                          Water                    qs 100 g                                             ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 2

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared:

    ______________________________________                                        Surface-active agent of the polyoxyethylenated                                                         5.0 g AS                                             carboxylic acid ether type, of formula:                                       R(OCH.sub.2 CH.sub.2).sub.n OCH.sub.2 COOH                                    in which:                                                                     R = octylphenyl                                                               n = average value of 4                                                        sold under the name Akypo OP 40                                               by the Company Chem Y at 90% AS                                               30% AS Ammonium lauryl sulphate                                                                        5.0 g AS                                             38% AS Sodium α-olefinsulphonate                                                                 5.0 g AS                                             Copolymer of dimethyldiallyl-                                                                          0.5 g AS                                             ammonium chloride and of acrylamide                                           sold under the name Merquat 550 at                                            8% AS by the Company Merck                                                    Polysiloxane containing a hydroxy-                                                                     2.0 g                                                acylamino functional group, sold under                                        the name Q2-8413 by the Company                                               Dow Corning                                                                   Sodium chloride          1.5 g                                                Triethanolamine          qs pH = 6.2                                          Water                    qs 100 g                                             ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 3

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared:

    ______________________________________                                        Surface-active agent of the polyoxyethylenated                                                         5.0 g AS                                             carboxylic acid ether type, of formula:                                       R(OCH.sub.2 CH.sub.2).sub.n OCH.sub.2 COOH                                    in which:                                                                     R = octylphenyl                                                               n = average value of 4                                                        sold under the name Akypo OP 40                                               by the Company Chem Y at 90% AS                                               30% AS Ammonium lauryl sulphate                                                                        5.0 g AS                                             38% AS Sodium α-olefinsulphonate                                                                 5.0 g AS                                             Polymer P1               1.0 g                                                Polysiloxane containing a hydroxy-                                                                     2.0 g                                                acylamino functional group, sold under                                        the name Q2-8413 by the Company                                               Dow Corning                                                                   Sodium chloride          1.5 g                                                Triethanolamine          qs pH = 6.3                                          Water                    qs 100 g                                             ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 4

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared:

    ______________________________________                                        Surface-active agent of the                                                                            12.0 g AS                                            polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid                                            ether type, of formula:                                                       R(OCH.sub.2 CH.sub.2).sub.n OCH.sub.2 COOH                                    in which:                                                                     R = C.sub.12 -C.sub.14 alkyl                                                  n = average value of 4.5                                                      sold under the name Akypo RLM                                                 45 by the Company Chem Y at 90% AS                                            Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate sold at                                                                       4.0 g AS                                            38% AS concentration under the name                                           Miranol C2M conc. by the Company                                              Miranol                                                                       Copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium                                                                    0.2 g AS                                            chloride and of acrylamide, sold under                                        the name Merquat 550 at 8% AS by the                                          Company Merck                                                                 Polysiloxane containing a hydroxyacyl-                                                                  4.0 g                                               amino functional group, sold under the                                        name Q2-8413 by the Company Dow Corning                                       Polyethylene glycol (550E) and propylene                                                                2.0 g AS                                            glycol dioleate derivative, sold under                                        the name Antil 141 Liquide by the                                             Company Goldschmidt                                                           Hydrochloric acid        qs pH = 7.7                                          Water                    qs 100 g                                             ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 5

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared:

    ______________________________________                                        Surface-active agent of the                                                                             7.2 g AS                                            polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid                                            ether type, of formula:                                                       R(OCH.sub.2 CH.sub.2).sub.n OCH.sub.2 COOH                                    in which:                                                                     R = (C.sub.12 -C.sub.14) alkyl                                                n = average value of 2.5                                                      sold under the name Akypo RLM                                                 25 by the Company Chem Y at 90% AS                                            30% AS Ammonium lauryl sulphate                                                                         5.0 g AS                                            38% AS Sodium α-olefinsulphonate                                                                  5.0 g AS                                            Quaternised polymer sold at 60-63% AS                                                                   0.5 g AS                                            concentration under the name Mirapol 175                                      by the Company Miranol                                                        Polysiloxane containing a hydroxyacyl-                                                                 10.0 g                                               amino functional group, sold under the                                        name Q2-8413 by the Company                                                   Dow Corning                                                                   Polyethylene glycol (550E) and                                                                          1.5 g AS                                            propylene glycol dioleate derivative,                                         sold under the name Antil 141 Liquide                                         by the Company Goldschmidt at 43.6% AS                                        Copra acid diethanolamide                                                                               2.5 g                                               Sodium chloride           3.0 g                                               Sodium hydroxide         qs pH = 5.6                                          Fragrance, preservatives qs                                                   Water                    qs 100 g                                             ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 6

A shower gel of the following composition is prepared:

    ______________________________________                                        (C.sub.12 -C.sub.14 /70-30)Lauryl sulphate of                                                          30.0 g AS                                            triethanolamine sold at 40% AS                                                (C.sub.12 -C.sub.18)Alkyl dimethylcarboxy-                                                              3.2 g As                                            methylammonium hydroxide sold at                                              32% AS under the name Dehyton AB 30                                           by the Company Henkel                                                         Polysiloxane containing a hydroxyacyl-                                                                  1.5 g                                               amino functional group, sold under the                                        name Q2-8413 by the Company                                                   Dow Corning                                                                   Copra monoisopropanolamide                                                                              2.5 g                                               (C.sub.16 -C.sub.18 /70-30)Ethylene glycol                                                              2.0 g                                               distearate                                                                    Polymer of hydroxyethyl cellulose and                                                                   0.5 g                                               of epichlorohydrin quaternised with                                           trimethylamine, sold under the name                                           JR 400 by the Company Union Carbide                                           Sodium chloride           2.0 g                                               Triethanolamine          qs ph = 7                                            Fragrance, preservatives qs                                                   Water                    qs 100 g                                             ______________________________________                                    

What is claimed is:
 1. A composition for washing keratinous materials,comprising:(a) 0.1 to 20% by weight of a silicone containing ahydroxyacylamino functional group chosen from the compoundscorresponding to the formula: ##STR12## in which: R₁ and R₂ represent(CH₂)₂, (CH₂)₃, (CH₂)₄, or --CH₂ CH(CH₃)CH₂ --; R₃ represents hydrogen,hyroxyl, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl; n is an integer varying from 2 to 7; xis an integer varying from 20 to approximately 1,500; y varies betweenapproximately 0.5 and 10; and the y/x ratio is less than 0.05; (b) 0.05to 8% by weight of a substantive polymer wherein the substantive polymeris selected from the group consisting of(1) optionally quaternisedvinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers;(2) copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with awater-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer; (3) quaternisedpolysaccharides; (4) cyclopolymers having a molecular weight of 20,000to 3,000,000 chosen from the homopolymers containing, as the principalunit of the chain, units of formulae: ##STR13## in which l and t areequal to 0 or 1, and the sum l+t=1; R₆ represents hydrogen or methyl; R₄and R₅ represent, independently of each other, an alkyl group havingfrom 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group, or a lower amidoalkylgroup or where R₄ and R₅ represent, jointly with the nitrogen atom towhich they are connected, heterocyclic groups, as well as copolymerscontaining units of formula (II) or (II') and units derived fromacrylamide or from diacetoneacrylamide; Y⁻ being an anion;(5) quaternarypolyammonium polymers selected from the group consisting of:(i) thepolymer containing repeat units corresponding to the formula: ##STR14##in which R₇ and R₈, R₉ and R₁₀, being identical or different, representaliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing 1-20 carbonatoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals or else R₇ and R₈, R₉ andR₁₀, together or separately, form with the nitrogen atoms to which theyare connected, heterocycles which optionally contain a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R₇, R₈, R₉ and R₁₀ represent a linearor branched C₁ -C₆ alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester,acyl, amide or ##STR15## group, where R₁₁ is an alkylene and D aquaternary ammonium group, A₁ and B₁ represent polymethylene groupscontaining from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, connected to orinserted into its principal chain, one or more aromatic rings or one ormore oxygen or sulphur atoms or sulphoxide, sulphone, disulphide, amino,alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or estergroups, and X⁻ represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organicacid, A₁ and R₇ and R₉ may form, with the two nitrogen atoms to whichthey are connected, a piperazine ring; if A₁ represents a linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical,B₁ may also represent a group:

    --(CH.sub.2).sub.n --CO--D--OC--(CH.sub.2).sub.n --

in which D represents a bis-secondary diamine residue; a bis-primarydiamine residue; or a ureylene group; and(ii) the polymer consisting ofunits of formula: ##STR16## in which: R₁₂, R₁₃, R₁₄, and R₁₅ which areidentical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl,propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b-hydroxypropyl or --CH₂ CH₂ (OCH₂ CH₂)_(P) OHradical, where p is 0 to 6, with the proviso that R₁₂, R₁₄, and R₁₅ donot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; x and y, which areidentical or different, are 1 to 6; m is 0 to 34; X represents a halogenatom; and A represents a dihalide radical; and(6) polyamines,polyalkyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridiniumunits, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternarypolyureylenes and chitin derivates, and (c) between 5and 50% by weightin relation to the total weight of the composition of at least onedetergent surface-active agent which is selected from a group of agentsconsisting of:(i) anionic surface-active agents selected from the groupconsisting of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, amine salts,aminoalcohol salts of alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates,alkylarylpolyether sulphates, and monoglyceride sulphates; magnesiumsalts of alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates,alkylarylpolyether sulphates, and monoglyceride sulphates;alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylarylsulphonates,olefinsulphonates, paraffinsulphonates, alkylsulphosuccinates,alkylethersulphosuccinates, alkylamidesulphosuccinates,alkylsulphosuccinamates, alkylsulphoacetates, alkyl ether phosphates,acylsarcosinates, N-acyltaurates, fatty acid salts, acids of copra oil,acids of hydrogenated copra oil, and acyl lactylates wherein the acylradical contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms; (ii) amphoteric agents;(iii) non-ionic surface active agents selected from the group consistingof polyethoxylated fatty acids with a fatty chain containing 8 to 18carbon atoms, polypropoxylated fatty acids with a fatty chain containing8 to 18 carbon atoms, polyglycerolated fatty acids with a fatty chaincontaining 8 to 18 carbon atoms, alcohols with a fatty chain containing8 to 18 carbon atoms, α-diols with a fatty chain containing 8 to 18carbon atoms, alkylphenols with a fatty chain containing 8 to 18 carbonatoms, copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates ofethylene oxide with fatty alcohols, condensates of propylene oxide withfatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides, polyglycerolated fattyamides, polyethoxylated fatty amines, oxyethylenated fatty acid estersof sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol, fatty acids esters of glycols, alkylpolyglycosides,oxides of (C₁₀ -C₁₄)alkylamines, oxides of N-acylamidopropylmorpholineand amine oxides; and (iv) mixtures thereof, in an aqueous medium,wherein said composition does not contain an alcohol suspending agenthaving 27 to 44 carbon atoms and one to two functional groups selectedfrom the group consisting of an ether group, a thioether group and asulphoxide group.